Season: mid July to mid September

Duration: 9-day jeep safari with overnight camping

The topography of Spiti is marked by high mountains and narrow river valleys, with flat land being an uncommon occurrence. The rugged climate and high altitude makes the region some-what difficult for human habitation. Spiti valley at places is 3 km. wide. There is level land on either side of the river giving the appearance of terraces. Villages are built around occasional springs, streams or flat lands. On the banks of the Spiti lie the "rolling downs" resembling the pastures of Tibet and Ladakh covered with herbage on which yaks, ponies and cattle graze during the summer. With the great range of main Himalayas in the background, this green sweep is exceedingly beautiful and refreshing. You behold the long sweeping slopes of pure white snow, raging torrents emerging from caves of solid iridescent massive crags, formations that look like medieval citadels perched thousands of feet above the valley. Green grassy meadows stretch out for miles and delight the eye with a profusion of wild flowers - buttercups, daisies, forget-me-nots, wild roses, violets, anemones, iris, columbines, harebell, blue poppies and many other varieties growing in abundance.

Day 01: Manali (1,879 M) To Lossar (4,073 M) - 7 Hours

Begin the spectacular overland safari to Spiti. This high altitude road beyond the Great Himalayan range, on the edge of the Tibetan plateau, connects the densely fertile Kulu valley to the stark barren region of Ladakh, once accessible only from the Vale of Kashmir. The journey is through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery ever witnessed by road travellers. As one traverses the main ranges of the Himalayas, the stark contrast in the topography becomes apparent. Lahoul and later Ladakh reveal barren landscapes that assume fantastic and bizarre shapes. Surrealistic colours splash off rocks ranging in colour from various shades of brown to rust, gold, pink, and yellow. Here one is traversing the roof of the world where the tranquil passive Buddhist influence on the inhabitants tries to soften the rough existence they must lead to survive.

From Manali, drive along the Beas River upstream along the true left bank through the villages of Bhang and Palchan, the last inhabited village in the Kulu Valley. Start the climb from Palchan village to Rohtang Jot via Gulaba and Marhi, the winter ski slopes which are used by local shepherds as summer pastures. The Beas, one of the major rivers draining the fertile land of Punjab, originates from a spring just below the Rohtang Jot. There are a profusion of chai shops and makeshift restaurants. The road beyond Marhi is broken and rough since it is used by heavy military and civilian convoys, carrying supplies to Lahoul, Spiti and Ladakh. Stop for a while on top of the pass at a chai shop to have hot cup of tea.

After forty minutes, a downhill drive will bring you to the small hutment of Gramphu (3,333 m). Here the road bifurcates, one branch leading right to Spiti Valley and the left one to Lahoul and Ladakh. The entire Chandra valley opens up in front of you with the Chandra Bhaga peaks dominating. From Gramphu turn right towards the east and drive upstream along the true left bank of the Chandra river for another 16 km. to the hutment of Chattru. Cross the river by a steel rope bridge and continue driving for another 30 to 40 minutes to the small village of Batal, located at a crossroads. To the north-west you can have good views of the CB 13, 14 and 16 peaks of the Chandra-Bhaga group. There is a small temple dedicated to Goddess Kunzum Devi at the top of the pass with prayer flags fluttering high over it.

Take a drive around the temple to pay homage and start the descent for another 11 km. to the first campsite before Lossar village. Since you have climbed some 2,000 m in a day, it is advisable to move around and go for a walk after camp has been set up to help acclimatize to the altitude. Drink lots of liquids such as soup, tea and coffee. Overnight camp at Lossar.

Day 02: Lossar To Kaza (3,774 M) - 4 Hours

After breakfast drive through the village of Lossar and stop to visit the monastery. Drive through the villages of Hansa, Kyato, Pangmo, Hal, Morang, Murling, Khyurik and Rangrik to reach Kaza. You get awesome views of Ki gompa from Morang village across the Spiti river. Cross the Spiti river just 2 km. before Kaza and drive along the true left bank of the river. Camp is set near the helipad after crossing Kaza, the district headquarters of Spiti valley. Overnight camping.

Day 03: Trip To Ki Gompa And Kibbar Village

In the morning drive to Ki, a beautiful gompa perched high on a pyramid-like mountain. It belongs to the Gelug-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism and has about 40 resident monks practicing meditation and other monastic rituals. Its main temple the Dhukhang has some of the best murals, well preserved statues and thangkhas depicting different life stories of Guru Padmasambhava, the founder of Gelug-pa sect.

Return to the main road and drive steeply uphill for another half hour to Kibbar, one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in the world, situated at the altitude of 4,303m. Located in a semi bowl-shaped narrow valley, Kibbar has a population of about 200 people mainly involved in the farming of barley and wheat. The light is just perfect an hour before sunset to photograph this unique village. Return to Kaza for overnight in camp.

Day 04: Kaza To Shichilling - 7 Hours

After an early breakfast drive downstream along the Spiti river for 21 km. Take a left turn and climb steeply for about 17 km. to Lahlung, a small village consisting of a cluster of 50 to 60 houses with a population of 250 inhabitants. Lahlung gompa, which is situated on top of the village, is invisible from the road.

Leave your vehicles and climb for about 15 minutes to the gompa. The main temple is intricately decorated with unique mandala frescoes and statues with the main statue of Bodhisatava in the centre. A small but very attractive temple depicts the philosophy which originated in Western Tibet about 800 years ago. To the right of the temple is an empty room used as a kitchen and for pilgrims to stay. The monastery is overshadowed by a huge fig tree providing much needed shade from the direct sun. Visit another small temple to the left of the main building which houses a four-headed clay statue of Buddha looking in four directions. Drive back to the main road and continue along the Spiti river to the large village of Tabo (3,753 m). Spread over an area of almost 3,000 square meters, surrounded by a thick mud wall, the gompa is divided into three buildings with the middle structure being most interesting and important.

Tabo gompa (also spelt as Ta-pho) was established about 1,000 years ago and was a part of Western Tibet school which originally designed different mandalas in the form of statues hanging on the walls of the gompa to meditate upon. However 800 years ago with the arrival of Guru Padmasambhava in Tibet, and with the introduction of his new sect - Gelug-pa - the old philosophy of Western Tibet schools was lost and their unique philosophical practices almost died. Now Tabo is the only living monastery outside Tibet depicting similar mandalas on the walls of the Dhukhang. Tabo is also the home of the incarnated H.H. The Dalai Lama's junior tutor. Tabo has seen a lot of physical changes in the last twenty years. A new gompa and a school has been built for the young monks as well as civil administration buildings, local schools, agricultural works and electrification have changed the character of the village drastically. The impact of the very impressive government effort to improve the communal life in the region has, however, had an unfortunate impact on the cultural geography. Continue on to the campsite at Shichilling.

Day 05: Shichilling To Pin Valley Via Dhankar - 5 Hours

After an early breakfast drive 8.5 km. on the link road and climb steeply to Dhankar, a most incredibly-situated gompa, perched high on barren rocky mountain slopes. As you progress, the whole of Dhankar village opens up in front of you like something artificial cropping up from nowhere. Park your vehicles at the beginning of the village and walk for about half an hour past mud houses on to your right and fields to the left with the Spiti river flowing down below.

The 6th century Dhankar gompa, though not well preserved still has some magnificent original thankhas and statues tucked away in dark rooms. You are advised to carry your flashlight to see some of the beautiful remaining murals. Unfortunately a part of the gompa was destroyed during the severe winter of 1989 and the repair work by the locals has led to the further destruction of these priceless murals. Return to the main road and drive to the bridge of Attargu. From here, cross the Spiti river and follow the Pin (one of the major tributaries of the Spiti) upstream. Drive through the villages of Chidang and Gyuling. Arrive at the tri-junction of Spiti, Pin and Khamengar valleys with the villages of Pokchung, Khar and Sangam on the three sides. Drive a little further up the Parachio Nalla, cross it over the bridge to reach the village of Sangam, situated on the true left bank of Pin river. Camp near the village. The Pin valley is known to be full of wildlife - ibex, khangral, marmot, bharal, are commonly seen on the high slopes with the elusive snow leopard occasionally visible looking for prey.

In the afternoon walk around and explore the Pin valley. Visit the monastery at Ghungri which is the main centre of the Nyingma pa sect in Spiti. The monastery is believed to have been founded by Guru Padmasambhava. It has undergone repeated repairs but contains some carved wooden specimens which are definitely old. The monastery must have remained an ancient monastic site of the Padmasambhava days. Overnight camp.

Day 06: Pin Valley To Lossar Via Kaza

Retrace the route back to Lossar via Kaza. Prepare for your onward journey to Ladakh. Overnight camping.

Day 07: Lossar To Jispa (3,347 M) - 7 To 8 Hours

Following the Chandra river the journey takes you to its confluence with the Bhaga, which joins to form the Chenab, one of the biggest tributaries of the Indus. Following the Bhaga upstream, the road goes past Keylong, the district headquarters, and on to Jispa, where camp is set for the night.

Day 08: Drive Jispa To Pang (4,115 M) - 8 To 9 Hours

From Jispa a level stretch leads to the checkpost at Darcha from where the road begins a steady and at times steep ascent up the Bhaga river. The clear morning air lends a sharpness to the snow mountains, visible at the head of the valley. The road crosses large meadows such as Zingzingbar and on to the Baralacha la (4,883 m). The ascent is so gradual that one hardly realizes it - in fact the pass itself is a level stretch of 8 km., with a small lake at the top, the source of the Bhaga. The pass is also the source of the Chandra which flows in the opposite direction to the Bhaga and later joins to form one river. From here the snow covered peaks of the Barashigri, Chandrabhaga and Mulkila ranges, towering well above 6000 m., are visible.

The descent is equally gradual and across barren landscapes all the way to Sarchu. From here climb up the Lachlung la (5,065 m), across the Zanskar range. The descent from the pass leads to the Kyangshu plains, a level stretch of over 40 km.. which is named after the kyang, a wild ass that roams these plains and is often sighted in herds of over 50 animals at a time. By late evening the campsite at Pang is approached. From the camp a short walk to the top of a nearby ridge reveals a large lake - the Tsar tso - and endless mountain ranges stretching into the horizon. Overnight camp at Pang.

Day 09: Pang To Leh (3,500 M) - 7 To 8 Hours

From camp the road goes via Debring, a big Indian army post, and climbs up to the Tanglang la (5,328 m), the highest point on the journey. At the top is a tiny temple with a few prayer flags rustling in the breeze - a constant feature up here.

Descend into a narrow valley past small villages with green patches that stand out like oases up to Upshi, where the Indus river is approached. The road follows the Indus past relatively fertile and prosperous villages and large Buddhist monasteries up to Leh. Overnight hotel.